If your puppy received their 10 week old vaccination jab while at Skylit, it takes a minimum of 7 days for the onset of immunity. This means that your puppy is still vulnerable to the killer diseases during that time and needs to be kept away from unknown dogs, potentially ill dogs, and/or public places where ill or unknown dogs may have been. Parvo can live for up to 7 years on surfaces so it needn't be a place that a sick dog even visited RECENTLY for your puppy to get deathly ill.

Keeping your puppy at home during those initial days also helps to establish routine and create a sense of "home" for your puppy. Your puppy has recently transitioned from one environment (Skylit) to another. What it needs now more than anything is to learn YOUR family's routine and to explore its new home and living environment.

If your puppy came home to you prior to 10 weeks of age, it will have received an INITIAL vaccination just prior to 8 weeks. Immunity will NOT be established and you will need to follow your vet's protocol for however many more vaccinations are required over what time period to ensure immunity. See more about vaccinations below.

If you DO need to take your puppy out and about before vaccinations have taken effect... even if you have to take your puppy to the vet clinic... CARRY your puppy. Parvo (which is the biggest risk to your puppy) is transferred through CONTACT. If you are carrying your puppy, they will be safe.

Keep your puppy safe! There will be a whole life time of opportunity to explore with your puppy AFTER they are fully immunised. Take the time, do it right and avoid any possible unhappy consequences.

Vaccinations

When it comes to vaccinations, I am a strong believer in "less is better". I wasn't always of this belief but having a dog who suffered for years due to OVER vaccination changed my mind.

And his over vaccination was MY fault. I tried to rush his vaccination series and even though he had a bout of diarrhea when he was due for them, I didn't think it was anything to be worried about. In hindsight, he more than likely wasn't 100% healthy when he got his jab and so his immune system wasn't in the situation to ensure immunity. Because he was preparing to fly overseas with me, immunity was REQUIRED (we had to test his immunity level using blood titres which registers the degree of immunity). He failed and so had to go through ANOTHER round of innoculations... again, somewhat "rushed" as we were up against an export deadline.

Shortly after his SECOND round of vaccinations he developed horrible skin and food sensitivity issues that we battled daily for the next 5 years. Basically too many vaccines in too short a time period destroyed his immune system.

When it came to breeding and producing puppies, I wanted a safer alternative so that the chance of this happening to one of my puppy families would be hopefully reduced.

I happened upon the Nobivac DHP (which stands for Distemper, Hepatitis and Parvo -- the 3 killers) vaccine. It costs a bit more and most vets don't stock it because of this but its benefits far outweigh the costs.

The Nobivac DHP has two administering protocols.

1. If you give the vaccine PRIOR to 10 weeks of age, you can then follow up with a 2nd dose at 10+ weeks of age and the puppy vaccinations will be complete. At that point, no further distemper, hepatitis or parvo vaccinations are required for THREE YEARS.

2. If you give the initial vaccine AFTER 10 weeks of age, the puppy vaccinations will be complete with just that 1 jab. No further vaccinations for distemper, hepatitis or parvo are required for THREE YEARS.

Puppies that go home PRIOR TO 10 weeks of age are started on protocol #1. In other words, they need a follow up vaccination (and YOUR vet may require 2 or even 3 follow up vaccinations depending on their own approach to vaccination).

Puppies that go home AFTER 10 weeks of age are technically FULLY vaccinated (but remember... it still takes 7-10 days AFTER their vaccination for the vaccination to have taken effect).

Here is where the problem lies however...

Currently the NZ Veterinary Association has its OWN protocol for how vaccinations should be administered and it does not gel with the drug manufacturer's recommendations! The NZVA are still of the belief that MORE vaccinations are necessary... that more is better... and that earlier is better.

Because of this, the fact that your puppy may have only had one jab and is technically fully vaccinated may be challenged… by your vet, by your puppy school, by puppy daycare, etc.

You need to do what you feel is right for you, your family, and your dog.

I will tell you that I personally follow the drug manufacturer's recommendations. All puppies that I keep back for Skylit are vaccinated at 10 weeks of age using Nobivac DHP and are not vaccinated again until at least 3 years of age.

I also believe in titre testing (to see what their immunity levels are) prior to re-vaccination. Sure it costs a bit more and most vets will say "Why bother titre testing to see if they NEED the vaccination? If it comes back that they do, you will have spent unnecessary money. If it comes back that they don't need a booster, you will have still spent the same amount of money as you would have if you just re-vaccinated."

But once you have had a dog that suffers from having been over-vaccinated... one where you tried EVERYTHING to try to help him... it can change your mind about giving jabs that may or may not be even needed.

My approach works for me and my dogs. New Zealand is still a bit behind the times when it comes to current recommendations surrounding vaccinations. I choose to follow the drug manufacturer's recommendations. After all, it would be to their (financial) BENEFIT to say that dogs needed MORE doses of their drug, rather than less. They've done the studies and drug tests to be able to recommend that vaccination protocol.

Here is a link to the Nobivac website where you and your vet can read the proper administration of their vaccine but do expect your vet to challenge it!

https://www.msd-animal-health.co.nz/products/Nobivac__DHP/020_Product_Details.aspx

You can read more about the risks of vaccinosis here: https://healthypets.mercola.com/sites/healthypets/archive/2012/08/20/pets-over-vaccination-disease.aspx

Insurance

Do I recommend it?

YES!

Puppies get into EVERYTHING and it only takes seconds for you to be facing thousands of dollars in vet bills.

Insurance will allow you to make decisions based on what is best for your puppy and not based on whether you can afford it.

Be sure to ask on our Skylit Puppy Families group for recommendations on best insurance/plan. Many puppy families have had first hand experience (unfortunately!) and can let you know how well the insurance worked for them.

Skylit puppies are able to receive a free no-obligation month of pet insurance from Pet-n-sur.

Signs You Need a Vet — QUICK!

Some injuries and accidents are unfortunately obvious that you need a vet ASAP but there are others that only give symptoms, or possibly your Lab has no symptoms at all, but you are worried they may have gotten into something they shouldn't have.
Always err on the side of caution... ring the vet... especially with puppies.
Some things to watch out for:

Diarrhea lasting more than 24 hours or several bouts over a short period of time -- puppies can dehydrate QUICKLY so don't mess around (no pun intended) when it comes to diarrhea.
Vomiting multiple times -- this can QUICKLY lead to electrolyte imbalance, dehydration and even death. It can signify that they ate something not good for them but it can also signify an intestinal blockage.
Not wanting to eat. Labs ALWAYS want to eat. If your puppy chooses not to for one meal, it may not be an issue. If they refuse their next meal too... get to the vet.
Swelling around the face (from bee stings or insect bites) -- Vet quick. Swelling around the face can be extremely dangerous as it can cause the airways to swell and your Lab may become unable to breathe.
Eating chocolate -- the smaller the dog, the more detrimental the effect. An adult Lab will PROBABLY be fine from having gotten into a small amount of MILK chocolate. A puppy will not. The signs are not immediate and if you wait for the signs, it may be too late. At a minimum RING your vet to review how much was eaten, when, etc. to find out if they feel you need to bring your puppy in. The higher the chocolate content (ie dark chocolate) the more dangerous. Cocoa powder is life threatening in even very small amounts.
Eating rat poison -- Vet immediately!
Eating any sugar-free products (gum is a big one) -- Vet immediately! Xylitol is a KILLER.
Swallowing things such as rocks, towels, socks, feminine hygiene products -- Vet immediately or you may be facing very expensive surgery that your pup may or may not survive.
Getting into biscuits and gorging ("Awww look! He's got such a big fat tummy... serves him right!") -- Vet immediately! Labs are prone to bloat and stomach twisting if this happens. Bloat can be life threatening. Have you seen Marley & Me?
Water intoxication -- Vet! You can read about Water Intoxication on the "Activity" page. It is real and a definite risk for Labs that love playing with water.
Heat stroke -- don't let your Lab get too hot. Manage their activity level and ensure they have shade or even a paddling pool to cool off in. Heat stroke can be deadly. If you feel your Lab has overheated, ring the vet for advise.
Seizures -- Vet! Unfortunately these are something that can happen in Labs. They can be due to poisons or they can be of unknown cause. Either way they are reason to visit a vet for a full checkup. If you can, video the seizure with your phone. At a minimum, keep track of the date and time that it happened, how long it lasted and anything your Lab may have been doing, places visited, new food fed, etc. in the 24 hours prior.

Poisonous food

Poisonous Plants

Puppyhood/Maturity

Labradors are large breed dogs and as a result, they mature a lot slower than some other breeds. Even though your puppy may be too big to carry around any more, they will still be a puppy for 2+ years.

It is easy when your puppy grows out of the cute little stage to start expecting more of them and to be surprised (disappointed) when they suddenly do things that are more "puppy-like" in nature. Aren't we through this yet???

Expect your puppy to go through stages for the first 2 years. They may seem to be a pro at potty training and then suddenly they start having accidents. Just remember, they are still learning. They are like a toddler and toddlers aren't perfect either. Accidents happen.

They may not have chewed anything/destroyed anything in months and suddenly they do. This can be extremely upsetting as you may have gotten a bit more lenient with what you leave out because you felt you could trust them. Just take a step back. Remember they are still puppies and this is a phase. These phases will become less and less frequent as they mature and will be shorter in duration but when one happens, just go back to basics. Pay a bit more attention, be careful what you leave around, reinforce boundaries and the rules of the house. Perhaps do a bit more training... reminding them of proper behaviour.

They may suddenly start pulling horribly on the lead, misbehaving when you leave them alone, demonstrating guarding behaviour (growling while eating or when they have a toy)... they are testing their boundaries like many teenagers do. Reinforce boundaries, right from wrong. Get a trainer involved if you are dealing with ANY aggression issues. It may even be worth a trip to the vet to ensure your dog is not suffering from any medical condition. (Ear infections are a common one for changing behaviour.)

Rest assured... if you remain CONSISTENT and continue to reinforce good behaviour through these phases... they will eventually end. Your puppy WILL become an adult dog and all of those teachings will have been worth it.

Families that try to ignore bad behaviour during these times by placing the dog outside, kenneling it out in the section, or locking it up in the garage or laundry, are the families that will have an out of control adult dog on their hands. These are the dogs (not Skylit dogs thankfully!) that you see ending up on Trade Me saying "just needs more room to run", "we just don't have enough time for the dog", etc.

Spend the time and your effort will pay dividends in the future when you have a great adult dog as a member of your family.

Spay/Neuter

Your Sales Agreement Terms and Conditions require you to wait until your puppy is a minimum of 18 months of age before spaying/neutering. I'm frequently asked "Why? My vet wants to do it earlier."

Here's why...

It used to be the recommended practice to spay/neuter at a young age but more current studies have now proven that the best age to spay/neuter is once the dog is fully mature (ie all growth plates have closed which for a Labrador typically occurs between 18-24 months).

Occasionally you will still find vets that will advocate for early spay/neuter. Their primary reason for doing so is population control. (This is also the focus of the SPCA and why all dogs from there will be spayed/neutered before being placed, regardless of age). Unfortunately the recommendation also comes because that is what they learned in vet school and they haven't kept up with the current research or best practices around the world.

New Zealand has been VERY behind the times in this regard. Most countries already support delaying neutering/spaying. The MAIN advantage to neutering/spaying at a young age is it relieves the family of having to be responsible for their dog's behaviour (ie ensuring they don't breed). Some common misconceptions are that neutering will stop a male dog from lifting its leg or marking and/or humping behaviour. These are ALL misconceptions. These actions are behavioural and not hormonal in nature. There's also a common misconception that neutering/spaying will "calm them down”. Again... false. A similar misconception is that intact males are more aggressive than neutered males. In actuality, the opposite is true. Studies have found that neutered males tend to have more aggression issues than those that have been left intact.

But besides behavioural/temperament issues, there are quite a few HEALTH issues connected to the age you spay/neuter your Lab. What the studies have shown is that neutering/spaying at a young age (before all growth plates are closed and the dog is fully grown) leads to increased stress on the joints and ligaments. What happens is that when the hormones are removed, the trigger that eventually slows growth is also removed. The bones continue to grow, putting extra stress and strain on the ligaments and joints. Dogs that are neutered/spayed young tend to end up a lot taller, narrower chested, and smaller skulled than those that are left intact until they are fully mature.

Neutering/spaying young is often a guarantee that the dog will suffer cruciate ligament damage and also increases the risks of hip dysplasia and elbow dysplasia. But the studies have also shown that there are increases in certain cancers in dogs as well as a STRONG increase in the likelihood of incontinence in female dogs by spaying/neutering young (pre 18 months of age).

There are slight increased risks of testicular cancer and mammary cancer by waiting to neuter/spay. But the subsequent increased risk of OTHER cancers as well as hip/elbow dysplasia and ligament tears, aggression AND incontinence by neutering/spaying young have a much higher prevalence.

When you think about it, imagine removing the whole hormonal system of a child before they are physically mature. You can imagine the havoc it wreaks in the body as the hormones are involved in far more than just reproduction.

So basically it boils down to this... if the dog owner wants what is in the best interest of the future health of their dog, they will wait until the dog is fully mature (18 months plus for a large breed/Lab). If the dog owner wants what is most convenient/easiest for them, they will spay/neuter as early as possible, unfortunately to the detriment of their dog.

Here are a few links to articles on the subject.
https://www.whole-dog-journal.com/health/spay-neuter/risks-and-benefits-to-spaying-neutering-your-dog/

https://www.dogsnaturallymagazine.com/health-risks-of-early-spay-neuter/

If you are worried about how to manage your female puppy's first season, be sure to check out the files section in our Skylit Puppy Family group. I've written up everything you need to know/do during that time and other families have also commented on how it was far easier to manage than they had imagined.

Bad Behaviour

When I have a puppy family contact me and say they are having trouble with their young Lab, there are a few questions I ask...

1. What is going on in the family? Dogs (like children) often start acting out when something has changed or if there is a lot of stress in the home. Think about things that are going on. Has the dog's routine changed? Is the family dealing with something that may have caused increased stress in the household? Even GOOD stress... like a new baby? If so, your dog is likely showing signs of not knowing how to deal with this situation. Oftentimes the best answer is to ensure you provide your dog a consistent routine. That will give them stability and let them know that all is ok.

2. Could your dog be ill? Usually this is not the case but a change in dog behaviour could certainly be triggered by your dog not feeling well. Ear infections are a key trouble causer.

3. How much time have you been spending with your dog? Labs are VERY family oriented. Can they survive being kenneled outside, placed in a dog house or put in the garage for the night? Yes. But every hour that your Lab spends apart from you is not what they would prefer and can lead to your dog "acting out" to indicate it is not happy. Labs want to be around their family even during what you may consider mundane moments. They are social, pack animals and your family is THEIR pack. I typically find that dogs that are acting out have been isolated from their families... spending more time AWAY from their pack than with it. That is a recipe for bad behaviour.

Aggression/Dominance

Aggression is not something that you mess around with. It is not "cute" in a puppy and unfortunately some families don't realise that it will more than likely lead to problems in adulthood.

The following are "not acceptable" in my eyes and require training/correction. If you are experiencing any of these type issues you may need to enlist the help of a qualified trainer.

Growling when eating

Growling if you try to take a toy from them
Biting -- note this is not the same as puppy "mouthing"
Humping/mounting people's legs/children
Lunging at animals, people, etc.

All of these behaviours can develop during puppyhood but need to be handled and dealt with appropriately to ensure they do not continue or escalate into adulthood.

Note there is a certain degree of "growling" that goes along with playing... especially common when two dogs are playing together or even when playing tug with humans. There is a difference between play growling and aggressive growling. If in doubt, consider it aggressive and seek assistance.

I am not a qualified trainer to help you through these but feel free to ask on our Skylit Puppy Families group for recommendations of trainers or others experiences.

Fear

Everything new and different has the potential to be something SCARY to your puppy or something ENJOYABLE.

You actually have the ability to influence how your puppy perceives that new thing whether it be a car ride, the vet's office, the ocean, going for a walk at night, fireworks, sirens, gun shots, traffic and many, many, MANY new encounters your puppy will likely have.

Your puppy will be looking to you for leadership and for clues as to how to react.

If you introduce new things slowly and allow the puppy to use all of their senses to determine if this new thing is good or bad, part of their assessment will take into account YOUR behaviour. If you are comfortable and relaxed, seemingly non-bothered, it will go a long way toward encouraging the same type response from your puppy.

One of the worst things you can do when introducing new things to a puppy is to preemptively start coddling your puppy. If your puppy senses you softening and consoling, they will see this behaviour as weakness... not leadership... and will respond accordingly.

For example, many people ASSUME that their new puppy will be afraid of fireworks. After all, so many dogs out there ARE afraid of fireworks. I've had puppy families ring me when they are about to face fireworks with their puppy for the first time, asking me how best to approach it. I always tell them that the BEST way to approach it is to assume that all is absolutely fine, all is good and that there is absolutely no need to feel otherwise. If they can play ignorant to the possibility that the fireworks MAY scare their puppy and instead make the evening fun with training, treats, their favourite toys and games, their puppy will only associate POSITIVE things with this new experience.

Don't assume your puppy will be afraid of things and don't preemptively coddle and console them, even if they show the first signs of being afraid. Give them time, remind them that you are the leader, that you are in control of the situation, and that all is well.

One word of caution however though... don't introduce too many new things all at once or too suddenly. If your puppy is overwhelmed, they won't take the time to thoroughly assess the situation and WILL respond by becoming fearful. If you can tell that something was just too much, gradually re-introduce it so they have the time to accurately assess how the rest of their "pack" (ie YOU) is responding.

This will work in your favour and will ultimately instill confidence in your young dog when faced with something new.